Strong RC Motors LLC
Strong Engineering
Using a STRONG
Soldering Jig
General
Silver solder is recommended
because it is stronger than other solders.
Soldering guns and irons both work well.
The Hobbico 60W iron and Deans Racing silver solder sold by Tower Hobby
work very well.
Soldering Can Hubs
Start by applying solder to
the face of the can and hub where they will contact. This is called tinning and
the idea is to wet the surface but apply as little solder as possible. A light application of paste flux will help
the solder wet the surface. As you apply
the flux and solder try to stay at least 1 mm from the center hole. This will minimize the chance of solder
reaching the shaft. Next open the hole in the can with a 3 mm drill. You don’t want to over do it and end up with
a sloppy fit so it is best done by hand.
Put the drill in a vise and turn the can by hand until it just goes over
the drill. It should then be a nice
close slip fit on the shaft. The same
technique can be used to clear any solder that may be on the edge of the hub’s
shaft hole. When both parts have a nice
slip fit on the shaft place the can on the jig. Insert the hub on the shaft
with the tinned face toward the e-ring groove.
Now the groove end of the shaft can be slipped through the can and into
the hole in the jig. Slide the shaft all
the way in then lift up slightly and tighten the setscrew with the hub positioned
to allow the joint to close completely when you push on the end of the
shaft. Now apply a small amount of flux
around the joint, and begin heating by placing the iron tip on the hub-can
joint. A few seconds will start the
parts heating, then apply solder and move the iron tip around the joint. Add additional solder as you move around,
just enough so liquid solder is visible all the way around. Now, assure the joint is closed by pressing
on threaded end of the shaft. Then just
remove the heat and let things cool.
Loosen the setscrew and tap the shaft out. The liquid solder may have reached the shaft,
but don’t worry. It will not stick well
to the shaft. But it may require a press
or taping with a light hammer to break it loose. Remember to support the hub (not the can) as
you press or tap the shaft out.
Soldering Can Extensions
With the flux ring and can
on the jig, start by applying paste solder flux with a tooth pick about 1 mm
each side of the joint.
The jig is aluminum and has
just a 2 mm wide groove under the solder joint.
That lets you heat the joint but not much else. The solder is only liquid under the iron tip
and maybe 1-2 mm on each side. That
allows you to work your way around the can, almost like laying a weld
bead. You can even go back and reheat
areas to spread solder around or add some.
The can and extension should fit together with no visible gaps. A gap big enough to see will let solder
through and you could end up with the can stuck on the jig, because solder got inside. If you can see gaps do not apply solder to
those areas until the can is removed from the jig. If the can and extension are soldered
together in 3 or more locations you can remove it from the jig and complete the
soldering off the jig.